This is the north. The Koman Lake ferry is 2.5 hours through a drowned canyon between cliffs, and it is worth the early start to catch the morning crossing. Valbona is at the end of the road in every sense, the last village before the mountain, guesthouses run by the same families that have always lived there. The hike over the pass to Theth is sixteen kilometres that most people describe as one of the best days of their lives. Dinner is whatever they made.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1, Tirana → Shkodër
- Drive north from Tirana to Shkodër, approximately 1.5 hours
- Rozafa Castle on the hill above the city, the confluence of three rivers below
- Marubi National Museum of Photography, one of the oldest photographic archives in the Balkans
- Evening in Shkodër's Venetian old town, dinner and overnight
Day 2, Shkodër → Koman → Valbona
- Early departure to the Koman dam
- Berisha Ferry through the Drini Canyon to Fierza, 2.5 hours of sheer cliffs and turquoise water
- Van transfer to Valbona village, short afternoon walk to settle in
- Dinner and overnight at a family guesthouse
Day 3, Valbona Valley Day
- Slow morning in the valley, short walks along the river and up into the pine forest
- Guesthouse life, home-cooked lunch, an afternoon at your own pace
- Second night in Valbona
Day 4, Valbona → Theth Hike
- The hike: Valbona to Theth over the alpine pass, 16km, approximately 811 metres of elevation gain
- Views in every direction from the pass
- Descent into Theth by late afternoon
- Dinner and overnight in Theth
Day 5, Theth Day
- Grunas Waterfall, the old Lock-in Tower, the Blue Eye of Theth
- Lunch in the village, afternoon at your own pace
- Second night in Theth
Day 6, Theth → Shkodër → Tirana
- Van departure from Theth, coffee stop in Shkodër's Venetian old town
- Continue south to Tirana, arriving by early evening
Day 7, Optional: Rest Day or Bovilla Lake
- Rest day in Tirana at your own pace, or a half-day trip to Bovilla Lake for a short hike and the reservoir viewpoint
- Final dinner in the city, or transfer to the airport
Where You'll Stay
Accommodation on this itinerary is mountain guesthouses in Valbona and Theth, clean, family-run, with home-cooked meals included. There are no hotels. That is part of it.
- Tirana
- Shkodër
- Valbonë
- Theth
Optional Add-ons
- Certified mountain guide
- Packed trail lunches
- Rozafa Castle guided tour
- Extra night in Shkodër
Suggested Stays for This Trip
A few of our apartments and villas that fit this route, hand-picked by our team.
Suggested Experiences for This Trip
Hand-picked tours and activities along your route - add them to your itinerary or just use them as inspiration.
2-Night Albanian Alps - Valbona to Theth
Northern Albania
The iconic hike. Three days. One of the great trails in Europe. Day 1: 05:30 departure from Tirana. The drive to Koman is 3–3.5 hours. Berisha Ferry to Fierza, 2.5 hours through the Drini Canyon. Van to Valbona. Short afternoon walk. Early night. Day 2: The hike. 16 km, 811 metres of elevation gain. Valbona Pass at the top. Views in every direction. Descent into Theth by late afternoon. Dinner and sleep at Harusha Guesthouse. Day 3: Grunas Waterfall. Lock-in Tower. Theth Catholic Church. Blue Eye of Theth. Lunch in Theth. Depart by van with coffee stop in Shkodër Venetian centre. Back in Tirana by 18:00.
4-Day Albanian Alps
Northern Albania
This is the north. The real north, before the road improvements, before the guesthouses got busy, while the trails are still quiet. Four days that start on a private boat on the Shala River and end with a cold mountain breakfast before the drive back. The centrepiece is Day 3: the Valbona to Theth hike. Sixteen kilometres across an alpine pass on a path that has been a trading route for centuries. It's demanding, and it's one of the great hikes in Europe. Everything else, the river gorge, the village guesthouses, the Blue Eye of Theth, is earned context. Ardit guides this trip personally.
Shkodër & Lake Skadar
Shkodër
Shkodër is Albania's second city and its most northern, closer in feel to Montenegro than Tirana, and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. The fortress above it, Rozafa Castle, was built and rebuilt by Illyrians, Romans, Venetians, and Ottomans. The views from the ramparts take in the Drin River, the mountains of Montenegro, and Lake Skadar stretching below, the largest lake in the Balkans. After the castle, the drive to Shiroka follows the lakeshore through villages where flamingos and pelicans feed at the water's edge in the morning. Lunch at the Shiroka waterfront is one of the highlights of the trip, fresh lake fish, white wine, the mountains reflected in still water. An optional private boat ride (add-on, approx €10/pp) takes you across to the lake's most beautiful bay. Back in Shkodër before heading home, the Marubi National Museum of Photography contains the oldest continuous photographic archive in the Balkans, Albanians from the 1850s onwards, shot in a studio that's still standing. It's 45 minutes you won't regret.